Reel Rock this year was the first time I didn’t absolutely adore it. Every other year has been amazing for me. But this one felt flat. Then I looked at the image above from Yeah Buddy and I remember that it was really inspiring and fun. Hazel acting as mentor has my heart completely, with Angie Scarth Johnson as bad-ass protégée is definitely nervous to wow us by crushing a deep water solo. So why did I leave feeling kinda blah about the whole screening?
The show is 4 films. They were screened in the order below (at least at Sports Basement in San Francisco) this matters. And I think it’s the problem with this year.
I live in San Francisco and have been going to Reel Rock screenings since I got this poster signed by Alex Honnold. In past years there were booths with climbers and giveaways and reasonable audio at both Sports Basement and at the Castro Theater (such as Honnold signing and handing out the poster above). It was like a climbers’ campfire with lots of puffy jackets, lots of smiles, raucously good fun until the host started talking on stage to get our attention before finally starting the screening that we’d all come for. Between each film, often one of the people featured in it would be brought on stage or the host would have some commentary about what we had seen.
A lot of that was missing this year. My question is why? Having assumed every screening was reasonably well supported like ones I’ve attended in past years, clearly that’s not how it is across every location. This leads me to believe that’s a budget issue which is fair enough but maybe tape them? Historically there has been a host; either one of Sender Films guys up on stage or some hilarious taped Q&A feed with Barefoot Charles would be shown during which he asked questions such as “Which lady has the best bottom?” Anyone who saw that knows what I mean.
Maybe the lack of in jokes was in part because we didn’t have Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, or Conrad Anker along for the ride. To be fair Tommy did turn up in Jirishanca in a quick cameo and Hazel Findlay is no stranger. But it does seem like a very conscious choice to leave out those boys on this year’s list. Over our years of mega fandom they’ve taken us on some pretty hilarious romps (Cuddle & The Nose Speed Record) with Caldwell and Honnold it’s been like visiting old friends. But this year we had to make new friends. And I’m not sure I like it. They’ve had lot air time, yes. And last year they did bike around a lot so maybe the film just wasn’t climby enough? Or maybe there wasn’t a film? Who knows.
If we did have to make new friends then we needed someone to do the introductions. No one did the introductions. It was like a badly hosted dinner party.
Some of the flop feel was due to the specifics of screening at Sports Basement, which has some pretty serious problems. The films were shown so that no one (except the front row) could read the subtitles because they were too far down on the screen to be seen past the bodies in chairs. Seriously? Didn’t anyone think to sit in a chair and see if the video throw was readable? Guess not. Also the guy giving out beers was also the host, nice guy, but you couldn’t understand anything he was saying as the audio was an underwater shipwreck in terms of fidelity.
I did really enjoy Jirishanca with Josh Wharton & Vince Anderson. It had some of that Reel Rock fun we’ve come to know and love. There were some good jokes about metal T-shirts and it told a compelling story. But I have to say it didn’t stick with me like other films have. They never set up where this climb is until after he’s done it turns out it’s in Peru. That’s a lost opportunity. I don’t think much of this audience knows shit about Peru and teaching us why that mountain meant something to them or what bucket list it came from would have made their struggle more interesting. I mean c’mon. See Meru for how to set up a great story about why and where and what is being climbed.
Next film: In my Heart with Sachi Amma. I gotta see this one again so I can read those damn subtitles and give it any kind of fair review or consideration my experience being frustrated really colored my take on this one – gonna let someone else properly dig into this one.
The screening ended with Climbing Never Die which is a poignant film about climbing in Ukraine amidst war with Russia. The ending of this film was a mistake, and I think there needs to be thought given to whole show order next time.
Reel Rock has included serious films in the line-up ever since Black Ice was screened. Black Ice was included after there were protests over the murdering of black people by police in the US. It was an important inclusion both because it was a really touching and fascinating portrait of climbers of color in the inner city at the Memphis Rox gym but also because as a culture we were deep in reckoning with our complicity as white people when it came to racism and so many black people being murdered. Climbing is a pretty white sport. We had North Face’s climbing team leader who is also climbing’s de facto spiritual leader, Conrad Anker, to delicately, thoughtfully and empathetically guide us through this minefield of inclusion.
Next year Resistance Climbing was shown. The film left everyone gutted. By all accounts the depiction of tenacity and resilience from within occupied palestine shattered everyone’s worldview forever. In an impossible to know sequence of events, that happened and then months later the war on Gaza started.
These two movies were really amazing, especially Resistance Climbing. But I think maybe Reel Rock has painted itself into a corner here. If you’re going to take our friends away from us, then you have to give us great films. If we can’t laugh along, then show us something damn impressive. Climbing Never Die is good but not great. Although it is very sad.
I won’t spoil what happens in the movie for those who haven’t seen it but there is a part that will make you cry.
The filmmaker himself says (paraphrasing here) “I can’t quite wrap my head around the uselessness of climbing during a war vs. it being the most important thing these climbers could be doing to cope with the horror of war unfolding around them.” It doesn’t dig much further than that and unfortunately having seen Resistance Climbing last year I know that a film can be much better and grapple with this issue in a more nuanced and thoughtful way. And then Climbing Never Die ended.
There was no host to close it out or interview with the guy that made it onto the team or anything like that, they just turned on all of the overhead lights and it was done. But I don’t think you can end on a film that isn’t excellent, is sad, and took away our friends and expect to have as successful of an event as you’ve had in previous years.
Next year I hope Reel Rock 19 has a host either live or taped is shown in better order, and opens with a higher quality “serious” film.
Will definitely go back next year and may even go again this year at Roxie Theater???? which is actually like a real movie theater and see how different the experience is when there’s an MC (maybe?? please!!!) hosting between films and also subtitles lol
And lastly, if there isn’t an excellent serious film equivalent to United States of Joe’s or Black Ice or Resistance Climbing next year, please let it be The Dodos where we get to watch Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll trapped in a tiny bathroom on a boat.
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